
Big Bend National Park
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Although it does not receive a large number of visitors, Big Bend has a reserved reputation as an incredibly beautiful national park. With its remoteness, I wanted to make a visit there while I had the opportunity. It is a nine hour drive from Dallas to Big Bend. I originally attempted the drive during the middle of the night on January 11th. However, I encountered a full on whiteout west of Abilene, TX on US 20. Really.
So, I tried again on January 17th. I reached the northern park boundary after Midnight, and to give you the scale of this massive 800,000 acre park, it took an hour to reach the Chisos Basin. Much to my surprise, every campground spot was reserved. While I was certain that someone cancelled, I didn't want to disturb anyone with my car lights. I decided to sleep in my car the few hours until the park office opened, and I could obtain a backcountry camping permit. People started lining up at the park door at 7am, and I did too until it opened. Surprisingly, I was able to obtain a camping permit at Toll Mountain, just down the base from Emory Peak. Multiple people suggested the rim trail, so along I went. I began on the west side, taking the Laguna Meadow Trail. This was a nice high desert trail, with cactus and fascinating micro-climate with numerous trails. In fact, bears and mountain lions are present in this area of the park. At the southern part of the Laguna Meadow Trail, you start to see the open Rio Grande basin, stretching well into Mexico. Beautiful mountain views, and totally unexpected for me. Next, the trail joined the South Rim Trail, and the views were even better. Really incredible.
At the southernmost part, I got a bit of bad advice. Numerous people recommended the Boot Canyon Trail. I asked a couple who were regular visitors to the park whether I should take the Boot Canyon Trail or take the East Rim Trail. They recommended the Boot Canyon Trail. However, I could have taken the East Rim Trail, and still effectively connected with a good portion of the Boot Canyon. As a result, I missed some really great views on that easternmost point. However, the unique topology and landscape created by this water collection is interesting. I continued on the Boot Canyon Trail until it reached the Emory Peak Trail. Because there is a high prevalence of people, there is high bear activity at this point. A large bear vault is present to protect your packs while you attempt the summit. However, there were so many people summiting, they were full. After 30 minutes, a number of people came down to create some room, and I headed up. It was a little more tiring than I expected. However, I was really surprised by the Class IV scrambling and the degree of exposed terrain. It was fun getting to the top. The views across the horizon were great. Because it was very small on the summit, once other people arrived, I descended. With all downhill, I was back at the bear vault in 20 minutes.
Because my campsite was situated where many people were enjoying views, I had to wait until near dusk. Now, the last of the summiters were descending, including some who were going to return down by headlamp. With bears active in the area, I was mindful of the banging bear vault, and how that would draw the attention of bears. I was very quick with dinner, both cooking and eating away from my tent. Very shortly after starting dinner, I was done, and again had all the food, cookware, and gear in the bear vault. Now, I would enjoy the beautiful desert sunset. Although the sun was completely down at 7:30pm, it began to get cold ~35' at night, and I was tired from the Midnight drive and hike. Early to bed. By 5am, I had slept enough. Although the sun would not rise for another two hours, I thought the time would benefit the nine hours back to Dallas. So, I headed down the trail by headlamp, being conspicuous with noise to alert animals of my presence. Two hours later at sunrise, I was back at my vehicle. The morning sun on the desert as I was returning north was one of the most beautiful sites I've seen. Should plan time to experience that again.
An incredible national park that I need to return to...